Redefining Time: The Evolution and Revolution of Ulysse Nardin’s Freak Collection

Since its inception in 2001, the Freak has been challenging the norms of upscale watchmaking. From its introduction, it turned the established world of Swiss Haute Horlogerie upside down, discarding the usual design and mechanical standards. This was a timepiece without a dial, hands, or crown, yet was a mechanical marvel crafted by some of the brightest minds in watchmaking.

The Freak X catered to a fresh cohort of Freak enthusiasts. Although it included a crown for a simpler design, it retained its audacious analogue watch representation. The movement’s bridges continued to act as the hands, with the mechanism integrating advanced features like the featherweight silicon balance wheel with nickel counterweights.

Its appearance was unmistakably Freak, yet it presented a more relaxed demeanour.

At the Watches and Wonders event in Shanghai, Ulysse Nardin has given the Freak X a more covert persona with the Freak [X OPS], with “OPS” denoting “operations”. The watch, with its black DLC titanium casing, green carbon fibre sides, and fabric strap, embodies a spirit of adventure.

The pioneering material for the case sides was first seen in the Freak X Magma. Previously, it combined carbon fibre with a red-marbled epoxy resin. Now, it pairs with green epoxy resin, providing a relaxed yet luxurious aura. Complemented by its fabric strap, it resonates with those who have a zest for adventure. It represents a timepiece that reimagines the core tenets of classic horology into a visionary wristwatch.

In stark contrast to traditional mechanical watches that keep their mechanisms hidden beneath a dial, the Freak [X OPS] flaunts its absence of a dial. The movement acts as the minute indicator, while an underlying rotating disc indicates the hour.

Breaking away from convention, the Freak [X OPS] lacks the typical hour and minute hands. Instead, the hour-long orbital carousel tourbillon acts as the minute indicator, with a pointer on a spinning disc replacing the hour hand. A daring design, yet intuitive in its reading.

The Freak [X OPS]’s unique casing is crafted from Ulysse Nardin’s featherlight carbon fibre composite, a material reminiscent of the random patterns of Damascus steel and introduced in 2019. This material blends carbon fibre with a green epoxy resin, resulting in its iconic 3D appearance. Every casing is unique.

The Freak [X OPS] operates on the UN-230, an automatic movement boasting a 72-hour reserve. The mechanism’s flying carousel with its silicon balance wheel and escapement is held aloft by a bridge that doubles as the minute indicator, while a secondary bridge indicates the hour.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS retails for SGD 47,500 including tax.