DANIEL ROTH: A Resurgent Era with a Tourbillon Souscription

The renowned independent watch brand, DANIEL ROTH, achieved legendary status among collectors during its initial golden age in the early 1990s. Recognized for its exquisite craftsmanship and refined aesthetics, the brand is now experiencing a revival under the guidance of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

The Rebirth

Three and a half decades after its inception, DANIEL ROTH is once again making a debut – this time, with another tourbillon. The Tourbillon Souscription pays homage to the original 1988 design, encapsulating the enduring values of the DANIEL ROTH brand.

Crafted in exclusive traditional yellow gold, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription maintains the signature double-ellipse shape. To enhance elegance, the front of the Tourbillon Souscription features a single face, resulting in a remarkably slim case height of 9.2 mm.

While the double-ellipse case retains its original proportions, subtle refinements have been applied. The lugs, meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, have been gently reshaped to create a graceful downward arch, improving the ergonomic feel of the iconic case.

Beneath the dial lies the in-house manufacture calibre DR001, tailored exclusively for DANIEL ROTH. “Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to honour the brand’s history while integrating some of the concepts and expertise we’ve gained in our careers,” explains Michel Navas. “Preserving the brand’s origins and the craftsmanship of its foundational pieces is particularly important to us, as we hold Daniel in high regard as a key figure in the industry who pioneered contemporary independent watchmaking,” adds Enrico Barbasini.

This reverence for the brand’s heritage is embodied in the DR001, an in-house movement exclusively designed for the Tourbillon Souscription – a philosophy that will be upheld for all future DANIEL ROTH calibres. Meticulously tailored to fit the DANIEL ROTH case seamlessly, the DR001 adopts the shape of a double ellipse, a rarity in an industry dominated by circular movements.

The Tourbillon

The DR001’s focal point is its tourbillon regulator. Capturing the style of the original, the tourbillon completes one rotation per minute, effectively serving as a second hand. This design leads to a three-armed, heat-blued seconds hand on the tourbillon cage, synchronized with a three-part seconds scale on the dial – a distinctive detail found in all original DANIEL ROTH tourbillon watches.

In line with the 1988 original, the tourbillon possesses a hidden detail discernible only to the owner. As each section of the second scale requires a different arm length for the second hand, the longest arm necessitates a slight groove in the inner case wall for smooth passage.


Limited to a mere 20 pieces, the Tourbillon Souscription follows the original 1988 concept not just in execution but also in availability. The timepiece will be offered through a souscription system, wherein patrons of DANIEL ROTH “subscribe” with a deposit upon order confirmation, with the balance settled upon delivery.

Similar to how the 1988 DANIEL ROTH tourbillon wristwatch paved the way for subsequent variations and additional complications, the Tourbillon Souscription marks only the opening act of DANIEL ROTH’s renaissance.

The DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon Souscription is priced at SGD 225,000, inclusive of tax.